Hanoi Train Street (also known as Railway Cafe Street) is one of the most visited and photographed spots in Hanoi. It’s a narrow residential alley in the Old Quarter where active railway tracks run right through the heart of the city, the full-sized train passing within a few inches of homes, small shops, and the little cafes on both sides of the track. It’s an important train route, constructed by the French in 1902, part of the route that links North and South Vietnam, and its popularity is largely because of the influence of social media.
The anticipation of each train’s arrival has become a tourist attraction within the city. Hundreds of people gather on Train Street, order a beverage of their choice, and wait for the train to pass by.
Several trains use this route every day and each passing is characterized by a gathering of the curious. It’s nice to get a coffee or beer, sit at a small table facing the railway tracks, and watch the event unfold. The train moves fairly quickly through Train Alley – I’d guess at about 15-20 miles an hour – and stupid people have been hurt and even killed by trying to touch the train or cross the tracks in front of it (not a good idea!) You’ll be impressed by the way the ground shakes and your drink starts to move across the table because of the train’s movement.
After the train passes by, the crowd disperses as people move on to do other sightseeing in the nearby Old Quarter. People pick up the bottle caps they placed on the train tracks – now completely flattened (you’re not supposed to do this, but many people do).
Train schedules vary (roughly 6–10+ per day, more on weekends), so check with one of the café or bar owners on the street and they’ll let you know when to come to get a good spot. It’s good to arrive at least 20 minutes early so that you can secure a spot. Commercial guides are no longer allowed to bring their clients to Train Street, although I’m sure many of them do and wait for them outside the narrow stretch of track where the authorities won’t find them.
After the train passed by, we took some time to explore the buildings, signs, art and sights of Train Street. Here is some of what we saw:
The safety issue of whether trains should continue to travel through Train Street is a topic of debate in Hanoi. The local business people love it (and need it to survive). Tourists love it. And if you use common sense, you can safely experience excitement of the train rushing by as we did. I have to admit it was one of the more unique experiences we had in Hanoi, and quite a lot of fun.
