Considered the jewel of the Silk Road, Samarkand (capital of Timur’s empire) is built around the iconic ensemble of Registan (“Sandy place”), the ceremonial heart of the city. Three madrasah (schools) form the square, although spanning different centuries of construction. The Ulugh Beg Madrasah was built by an astronomer from 1417-1420, but also taught theology, mathematics, and philosophy. Children would spend 6 years being educated before advancing to additional studies. Opposite stands the Sher-Dor Madrasah (1619-1636), whose façade depicts tiger-like creatures chasing deer, an allegory for students pursuing knowledge. Figurative imagery cannot be depicted in traditional Islamic religious art, making the design strikingly unique. The walls are asymmetrical, creating optical illusions. Over the following 200 years, the Ulugh Beg had sunk nearly 6 feet, which meant the new building had to be built higher. In the middle, the Tilya-Kori Madrasah (gilded; 1646-1660) has gold decorations throughout, a mimic of heavenly light. The geometry is amazing, giving an imperial feeling. Students studied on the group floor, living in quarters on the 2nd floor (all Madrasah only have 2 stories).
When the Bibi-Khanym Mosque was completed in 1404, it was touted as the largest mosque in the world, built by Timur after returning from his Indian campaign, for his favorite wife. Parts collapsed soon after construction due to the rapid construction timeline and engineering limits of the time (dome was 40 meters high). Nearby is Gur-e-Amir, a classical ribbed dome (influencing Mughal architecture for years to come), containing the tomb of Timur, considered the most powerful rulers in central Asia. The jade tombstone is the largest piece of dark green jade in the world, covered by a gold leaf dome. Still, the largest tombstone is to his mentor, a teacher! Nearly all of the Ulugh Beg Observatory (1420) is lost, but the massive 63-meter sextant still exists, allowing for precise determinations of calendars and length of days, along with star measurements, still accurate today
About 20 miles outside the city, the massive Imam al-Bukhari Mausoleum covers nearly 15 acres, considered to be second only to Mecca as a pilgrimage site. He was a revered hadith scholar buried here in 870 AD. The pool, elaborate doors and domes and various museums make it a truly memorable visit.
Many of Timur’s relatives and members of the elite were buried in elaborate mausoleums built on a hillside (11th-15th century), called Shah-i-Zinda, meaning “The Living King” (legend says he continued living even after decapitation!). The beautiful blue tilework of the necropolis glimmers in the sunset, creating an other-worldly aura.
Hundreds of carpet sellers are ready to negotiate in and around the Siyob Bazaar, but we preferred spending time watching carpets being hand knotted by the workers, putting me to shame as I tried to learn carpet weaving and silk spinning.
