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Corpus Christi in Seville and Barcelona

 

Corpus Christi is a big religious event in Spain, celebrated across the country, and often with different local traditions. I knew almost nothing of this until we arrived in Seville this June, just on the day of the first big parade.

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Walking from our apartment in the Santa Cruz neighborhood toward the Cathedral a few blocks away, we came upon elaborate altars set up along the pedestrianized streets.

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Outside the Royal Alcazar, we found costumed dancers and others waiting to begin a major event inside—invitation only, so no more details!

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As we walked back toward the apartment, we encountered the parade itself, complete with lots of brass and drums, following the tram tracks along a main street.

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Eventually, they turned the corner and headed back into Santa Cruz, where they collected a local contingent of costumed and crowned kids (at top and below). That was the big evening, followed the next day by more events including a well-attended special mass at the Cathedral.

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Several days later, on returning to Barcelona, I found that Corpus Christi wasn't over yet, although the parade near my hotel in the Raval district was nowhere near as uniformed or orderly, but just as enthusiastic!

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What I didn't get to see, sadly, was a Catalonian Corpus Christi tradition that originated in Barcelona in the 17th century: Ou Com Balla, or "How the Egg Bounces." An egg is placed in the vertical jet of a fountain, carefully, so that it is held aloft by the water.

L'Ou_com_Balla_Barcelona_Catalonia   Image: Micaco from Catalonia/Wikimedia

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The best part of every trip is realizing that it has upset your expectations

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