Rambling around McCarthy, Alaska

McCarthy represents the stereotype many people have of a remote Alaskan community, or “bush town”.  It’s isolated and difficult to get to, sitting at the foot of the Wrangell mountains in the heart of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve (the largest national park in the U.S.A.)

The main attraction for visitors to McCarthy is the rugged wilderness that surrounds it.  There is also an important history of mining, specifically copper ore mining at the nearby Kennecott Mine (which you can still visit and which is a well-preserved and fascinating place).  Copper was discovered near the Kennecott Glacier in 1900, leading to the establishment of a very productive copper mine.  The mine itself had a self-contained community for the miners, but it was very strict in what it allowed residents to do – such as no gambling or drinking.  Because of this, McCarthy was established in 1906 and was a place where the miners could go to indulge in the features of a “sin city” — gambling, drinking prostitution, etc.  Construction of a railroad into the area in 1911 facilitated the transportation of copper ore and provided the main access to the area.  The Kennecott mine extracted a wealth of copper ore (billions in todays $$), but in time the ore was depleted and the mine closed in 1938 after the railway to the town was shut down.

The town is usually accessed via a very rough and tricky gravel road (McCarthy Road), built on the old railroad track.  Keep an eye out for spikes poking through the gravel as you travel, so that you don’t puncture a tire.  You can also fly to McCarthy in a bush plane, but that’s quite expensive.  There are no cars allowed in the town center, so you have to park at a community car park and then walk over a footbridge that crosses the Kennecott River, and then walk still a stretch more until you’re in town.

For a few months each summer there is a spike in tourism, but in the offseason (which spans most of the year) there are very few people who live there (less than a hundred).  And those residents who stay here during the long bitter winter are very hardy folks who embrace an off-grid lifestyle, relying on generators, wood heat, and community spirit – and probably a generous quantity of alcohol to keep their innards warm.

Town services are relatively few and primitive by most travel standards, but you can get a room, buy a meal, get some groceries, buy a drink, and enjoy the beauty of the place.  Activities you can enjoy include hiking (on trails as well as on glaciers), whitewater rafting and flightseeing tours.  Wildlife is frequently spotted near by (especially bear, moose and Dall sheep).

The following photos show some of the things we saw in the McCarthy Historic District:

We spent a few nights here and greatly enjoyed our visit.  But it’s not for everyone.