Khiva, Uzbekistan: A Preserved Medieval Fortress

We took a train ride between cities, leaving at 7 am. and arriving at Khiva around noon.

Platform with passengers waiting for the train
Sleeper car inside the trains
Sleeper car inside the trains
Desert between Bukhara and Khiva traveling by train
Desert between Bukhara and Khiva traveling by train

In essence, Khiva is an open-air museum, which is a 30-foot high walled inner city fortress (called Itchan Kala), with the entire town designated a UNESCO heritage site. There are more than 50 historic monuments inside the 1,600 year-old fortress. along with hundreds of homes within the mud-brick walls. In essence, it is as if you are walking through an exceptionally large film set.

Direction signs in the city
Direction signs in the city
Domes, minnarets and mosques
Domes, minnarets and mosques
Camel waiting for the rest of the caravan
Camel waiting for the rest of the caravan
Broad avenues and pedestrian streeets
Broad avenues and pedestrian streets

The Juma Mosque is literally a forest of 212 wooden columns, some more than a thousand years old, and all covered with carved inscriptions. There is a central opening through which sunlight filters, creating bands of dancing illumination in this flat-roofed mosque.

Juma Mosque by night
Juma Mosque by night
Juma Mosque interior
Juma Mosque interior

While intended to be the highest minaret in central Asia, construction on the Kalta Minor was abruptly halted when the ruler died. As such, it has a truly short, stout appearance, with dazzling turquoise tiles covering what looks like a giant’s misplaced chess piece.

Kalta Minor and city view
Kalta Minor and city view
Kalta Minor
Kalta Minor
Kalt Minor at night
Kalt Minor at night
Children at play in the courtyard at night
Children at play in the courtyard at night

The Pahlavon Makhmud Mausoleum is a pilgrimage site to Khiva’s patron saint: poet, philosopher, healer, and legendary wrestler, who fought to release Uzbek prisoners. The interior of the dome glows with layers of blue and green tilework, constantly changing in the light.

Pahlavon Makhmud Mausoleum
Pahlavon Makhmud Mausoleum
Mausoleum domes
Mausoleum domes
Madrasah and minaret and embroidery for sale
Madrasah and minaret and embroidery for sale
Pahlavon Makhmud Mausoleum
Pahlavon Makhmud Mausoleum
Shoes are left outside when entering the mosque
Shoes are left outside when entering the mosque
Ceiling of Pahlavon Makhmud Mausoleum
Ceiling of Pahlavon Makhmud Mausoleum
Wall with painted and glazed tiles
Wall with painted and glazed tiles
Night view of Mausoleum and minaret
Night view of Mausoleum and minaret

Kunya-Ark houses a citadel that is one of the highest points in the town constructed in the 12th century. It had prisons, treasury rooms, a mint, barracks, and royal reception halls. The observation tower would allow detection of caravans from far away as they approached the city.

Kunya-ark citadel with view of the city
Kunya-ark citadel with view of the city
Itchan Kala walls
Itchan Kala walls

Tash Khauli Palace complex was built from stone in 1830 for the Khan’s court, wives, concubines, harem, and other officials. The spectacular blue-and-white tilework and carved wood ceilings highlight the Khorezm craftsmanship perfectly. This was truly one of a kind in preservation and splendor, spending nearly 2 hours exploring the more than 150 rooms and 9 courtyards (including climbing on the rooftops and parapets).

Khorezm craftsmanship in the palace complex
Khorezm craftsmanship in the palace complex
Columns support palace
Columns support palace
Carved doors and handles
Carved doors and handles
Tash Khauli Palace wall
Tash Khauli Palace wall

A few final photos from our visit:

Hats are optional in the summer
Hats are optional in the summer
Group photo
Group photo
Madrasah with silks for sale
Madrasah with silks for sale
One of two ice-creams had per day (at about $0.42!)
One of two ice-creams had per day (at about $0.42!)
Sunset of the city through fountains
Sunset of the city through fountains
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Marilyn Jones
28 days ago

Awesome!!

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