There is a small place in California called ‘Copperopolis’, named so for the copper mines in the area. This was also a nickname given to Swansea in the 18th and 19th centuries – when it was truly the global capital for copper production. At some point over 70% of the world’s copper was produced here. The photo at the top shows an old copper ingot that was recovered from a shipwreck.
Swansea’s safe harbour at the mouth of the river Tawe and its proximity to the coal fields of South Wales, coupled with a short sea route to Cornwall’s copper mines, made it an ideal location for setting up copper smelters. The first one was established in 1720 and numerous others followed.
Old paintings and photos show a vast array of smoking chimneys and a harbour full of large sailing ships. Two of the largest copper works here (and in the world) were the Hafod and the Morfa works, which merged in 1924 and finally closed in 1980. The ruins of the few remaining buildings of these works are being redeveloped as an industrial heritage site.
Access to the site is currently restricted to organised industrial archaeology tours, led by volunteers. My wife and I joined one of these and we had a very interesting time exploring the works and what is left of the machinery—as well as learning about the atrocious conditions the workers here had to suffer and the horrendous pollution which the industry generated.
A path around the perimeter of the site and along the river bank has been completed. I am not sure what to make of the artistic adornments on the route.
An excursion boat, the ‘Copper Jack’, operates trips several times a day from Swansea harbour to the Hafod-Morfa site. It is also run by very knowledgeable volunteers, who provide a wealth of information about the history of Swansea’s copper industry along the way and point out things on the river banks that are part of this history, but which a casual observer might easily miss.
One part of these old copper works has already been given a new lease of life: as a whisky distillery!
Penderyn Distillery took over and completely refurbished the old powerhouse building, turning it into the centre of their operations. Some of the stills are shown below.
Rather fittingly, they are made of copper.
