Dawson City — a city no more

I’ve enjoyed the story of the Klondike Gold Rush since I was a child.  It’s a fascinating tale of dreams, adventure, hard work, excitement, and disappointment.

“Government House”, built in 1901 for the chief executive of the Yukon Territory. It’s now a Parks Canada historic site, offering seasonal tours.

A Brief History of the Klondike Goldrush

In August 1896 three prospectors found a rich deposit of gold nuggets while panning in Bonanza Creek, a few miles from where Dawson City is now located.  News of this discovery did not reach the outside world until the following year, when steamships docked in San Francisco and Seattle carrying moosehide sacks full of Klondike gold.  Gold Fever gripped North America, and several hundred thousand people gave up life as they knew it and made their way to Yukon for a chance to strike it big!  Of these, only about 30-40,000 made it to newly created Dawson City, which served as a close gateway to the Klondike gold field.  By then all the claims around the area had been taken by local sourdoughs, and the best most of these adventurers could hope for was to work for a wage mining gold for someone else.

Dawson City’s Post Office

During the mining frenzy, Dawson City was the largest city in Canada west of Winnipeg.  It grew almost overnight so it was characterized by tents, rapidly constructed log cabins and a few businesses like stores, hotels, saloons and brothels.  It was a bustling place and became the capital of the newly created Yukon Territory.  With the collapse of gold mining in the Klondike a few years later, Dawson’s population collapsed and today is about 1500 individuals.

 

I have visited Dawson City on two different occasions, once at the one hundred year anniversary of the Klondike Gold Rush, and the second time a few years later.  Both of these visits spanned several days, so I was able to get a good feel for the community.  The photos in this post were taken during my second visit, and are likely somewhat dated (in that there may have been more improvements made since my visit).  But I think they capture the spirit of Dawson City.

Shuttered and unrestored St. Andrews’ church
Unrestored buildings showing the effect of weathering and permafrost.

Since it’s just a small town, what still draws visitors to Dawson City?  It’s to see the many reminders of that glamorous gold-mining era, which makes visiting a lot of fun.  Most of these buildings exist as a result of Park Canada’s efforts to conserve them, as the climate and permafrost are harsh on buildings this far north.

Here are some of the places you can enjoy:

Klondike Kate’s – formerly a dance hall, today a restaurant

Klondike Kates remains a popular local hangout.

Diamond Tooth Gerties Gambling Hall: Canada’s oldest legal casino (opened in 1971 but in the original 1901 building style). Same location where the real Gertie Lovejoy performed.

Palace Grand Theatre (1899): Restored by Parks Canada and a place to catch a live show during summer tourist season.

Red Feather Saloon (now part of the Downtown Hotel shown in the top photo): The bar’s counter is original 1898 wood.  The Downtown Hotel also features the “Sourtoe Cocktail” – a shot with a real dehydrated human toe in it that dates back to the 1920s (yes, it’s a real toe, but I skipped this drink.  And you can’t keep the toe)

Front Street boardwalks: Almost exactly as they were in 1898.  Beats walking in the mud.

Robert Service Cabin – Robert Service was a poet who came to fame with his writings about the Yukon, and is one of my favorite writers.  His day job was as a bank teller, but his legacy is the words he wrote.  You can visit his 1898 home.

Robert Service cabin
Robert Service is best know for the “Cremation of Sam McGee”, but I think his best work is the “Spell of the Yukon”, the first verse of which is street art in Dawson City.
Another old “sod roof” cabin,. The adjoining poled structure is a meat cache, where one would store meat during the winter months (which lasts most of the year up here)

Midnight Dome viewpoint.  Midnight Dome is the sizeable hill behind Dawson City, so named because it’s a popular gathering point during the summer solstice in which to see the sun briefly set, then shortly thereafter rise again (“Land of the Midnight sun”).  From Midnight Dome you get a great view of the Yukon River and Klondike River junction.  Note how the dark water of the Klondike (at about 8 o’clock) disappears into the creamy water of the Yukon.  You also get nice views of Dawson City.

Midnight Dome view of Dawson City and the confluence of the Klondike (dark water) and Yukon (creamy water) rivers.
The road across the River from Dawson City is the “Top of the World Highway”, which heads into Alaska. You need to cross the Yukon River by ferry to reach it.
A look south towards Discovery Creek — where the gold was found
A look at the Yukon River north from Midnight Dome, downriver from Dawson City

If you head up along the Klondike River, you will see remnants of the giant gold dredges which chewed up the valleys from 1910 to the 1960s. Dredge No. 4 (a National Historic Site) is the largest wooden-hulled dredge in the world—and you can climb inside it.

Massive Dredge #4, mined the Klondike for decades and managing to extract lots of gold from the tailings left by the original Klondike gold miners.

The business end of Dredge #4.

I’ve really enjoyed the days I spent in Dawson City  It is one of the few Gold Rush towns on earth where almost nothing has been torn down or modernized.  While there is still a gold mining industry in the area, today the town thrives on mining the pockets of tourists..

 

 

Share the Post:

Comments

0 Comments
Oldest
Newest Most Voted
Inline Feedbacks
View all comments

Featured Destination

Gumbo's Pic of the Day

Posts by the Same Author