This post sees a return to Seoul, South Korea, and continues the account of our visit there in October last year. The closest section of the Cheonggyecheon Stream featured here was just a five-minute stroll from our hotel.
The Cheonggyecheon Stream is one of Seoul’s most iconic urban landmarks today, but its history is a fascinating journey of neglect, development and ambitious restoration. Stretching approximately 11 kilometres through the heart of downtown Seoul, the stream has undergone a dramatic transformation over centuries, reflecting South Korea’s broader social, political and economic changes.
Historically, the Cheonggyecheon Stream played an essential role during the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1897). Originally a natural watercourse that flowed from the mountains in the north of Seoul to the Han River, the stream provided water for daily use and irrigation. King Taejong of the Joseon Dynasty was one of the first rulers to recognize the need to control the stream’s flooding and maintain its cleanliness. Over time, various kings initiated public works projects to dredge and maintain the waterway. The stream became a central feature of urban life, with bridges crossing it and markets forming nearby.
However, as Seoul rapidly urbanized in the 20th century, especially after the Korean War of 1950–1953, Cheonggyecheon fell into disrepair. Post-war Seoul saw a massive population boom, leading to overcrowding and insufficient infrastructure. The stream became a dumping ground for waste and sewage and was surrounded by makeshift housing and informal markets. By the late 1950s it was considered an eyesore and a public health hazard.
In an effort to modernize the city, the stream was covered with concrete and in 1971, an elevated highway was constructed above it, symbolizing the industrial growth and rapid development of South Korea during that era. While the highway eased traffic congestion, it also buried the stream entirely and caused environmental and aesthetic degradation in the city’s core.
By the late 1990s, public sentiment had shifted toward sustainable development and urban renewal. In 2003, then-mayor of Seoul, Lee Myung-bak, launched an ambitious restoration project to uncover and revitalize Cheonggyecheon. The project, completed in 2005, removed the highway and reintroduced the stream as a clean, landscaped urban park. Water is now pumped from the Han River to keep the stream flowing, and the area includes walking paths, art installations and greenery, creating a tranquil escape in the middle of a bustling metropolis.
The restoration of Cheonggyecheon was met with both praise and criticism. Supporters lauded the project for its environmental impact, reduction of urban heat and revival of local businesses. Critics pointed to the high cost and the displacement of vendors during construction. Nonetheless, the stream’s revival has since become a model for urban regeneration worldwide.
Today, locals and tourists alike flock to Cheonggyecheon Stream to enjoy its clean waters, where you can crisscross the stream haphazardly via bridges and stepping stones, and view stunning lighting displays that change with the seasons.
Starting from Cheonggye Plaza, the stream meanders under 22 bridges before joining the Hangang River, the English name for the Han now preferred by the Seoul Government. If you stroll the stream from beginning to end, you’ll see several well-known tourist destinations including the Gwangjang Market, the DDP Cultural Center, and popular areas like Dongdaemun and Euljiro.
Despite being in downtown Seoul, the stream’s surroundings boast beautiful trees, grasslands, and flowers. It’s a perfect retreat, offering a serene escape from the city’s hustle and bustle, inviting visitors to relax and connect with nature in the heart of Seoul.
Throughout the year, Cheonggyecheon Stream undergoes festive makeovers to coincide with different seasons and holidays. At night, visitors can enjoy the fantastic display of light and water at the starting point of the stream at Cheonggye Plaza and along the way.
Today, the Cheonggyecheon Stream is not just a place of leisure and beauty but also a symbol of Seoul’s resilience and commitment to harmonizing modernity with environmental stewardship. Its journey from a vital natural stream to a forgotten urban trench, and finally to a celebrated green space, mirrors the dynamic transformation of Seoul itself.
Photos © Judy Barford except where otherwise credited
Great article and photos!
Thank you, Marilyn.
An interesting look at one of Seoul’s attractions, which I’d never heard of before. Thanks for the post and for Judy’s photos!
Thanks from both of us!