Bukhara: Religious Scholarship and Silk Road Tradition

Bukhara is considered the spiritual city of the Silk Route. The large Ark Fortress was a royal city within the city for more than a thousand years (400 to 1920). The emirs ruled from this “residence,” which included courts, palaces, mosques, prisons, libraries, and harems. Some of the execution methods included being thrown from the 60 foot-high walls or from the minarets of the city.

Mulberry trees are everywhere -- part of the silk route/road! — Mulberry trees are everywhere — part of the silk route/road!

Lyabi-Hauz ensemble: Nodir Devonbegi Khonako

Nearby is the elegant Bolo Haouz Mosque (1712), built on 20“chop-stick”-like carved walnut and elm columns. Intricate floral designs are painted on the ceilings. Water reservoirs were built around it that served the needs of the ancient city.

Columns supporting the Bolo Haouz Mosque

Near the center of the city is the Kalon Minaret, built in 1127 and 150 feet high (30 foot deep foundation) constructed of baked brick with mortar that includes camel’s milk. Genghis Khan spared it during his destruction of Bukhara since it was so impressive and striking.

Kalon MinaretUsually people were being thrown off rather than jumping up — Kalon Minaret Usually people were being thrown off rather than jumping up

The city continues to remain famous for silk embroidery, carpets, miniature painting, metalwork (laaly or taboq), and Suzani textiles. Vendors line the streets and passageways, filling in the caravanserai (dome covered shopping areas). Artisan methods are transmitted through family workshops rather than formal academies. It was so fascinating watching young children learning how to paint and carve wood, while the ancient metalworking technique of Kandkori used to emboss brass or copper trays and plates was amazing.

Domes with intricate tile and painted reliefs

Vendors selling within the courtyards (domes above them)

Domes of the various shops with domes of the mosques and madrasah

Artisan selling knives they created out of Damascus steel

Old coins with 3 balls, representing the 3 continents conquered by Timur.

The center of town has a pool and several surrounding buildings, including the bronze statue of Khoja Nasreddin on his faithful mount (near Lyabi-Hauz)! I enjoyed a traditional hammam but was quite surprised by having the whole weight of the masseur on my shoulders! A short walk brought us to the Chor Minor (1807), a gatehouse for a madrasah complex. It has 4 unique turquoise towers, each with distinct tile motifs, supposedly symbolizing the world’s major religions.