Historically Krakow's large and impressive Main Market Square -- the largest medieval square in Europe -- was where local residents conducted their shopping, but today that space belongs to the tourists.
Locals have moved their activities elsewhere, including to Little Market Square (in Polish, Maly Rynek). This square lies a block behind St. Mary's Basilica, so it is easy to access when you're in the heart of old Krakow. The square itself is lined by colorful buildings dating from the late 17th century and in the past was where the meat market was located.
A lively market is held in Little Market Square on weekends, which fills the square with a variety of vendors, as well as a stage for live entertainment. The stalls feature food and interesting handicrafts, some aimed at tourists but much of it also of interest to Krakow's residents. I'd say most people visiting this market spoke Polish and were there for the food vendors and entertainment.
We visited the square a few times during our stay in Krakow, once at night and once during the day. One afternoon we encountered these gentlemen, dressed in traditional outfits, preparing to play Polish folk music.
The market is home to many food vendors, including several selling loaves and slices of hearty rye bread, a staple in the Polish diet. I was amazed at how large some of these loaves are, approaching the size of small car's tire.
Slices of rye bread are cut to order and served with butter or a lard-based spread (which tastes far better than it sounds). Sides and toppings like those shown in the photo below are also available.
Polish people enjoy their meat and fish....
...but they also enjoy pastries....
...and chocolates. Chocolate was beautifully presented and, based on those pieces I tried, very tasty.
A candy vendor for those with a sweet-tooth.
Many of the stalls sold handicrafts, like pottery and wood carvings.
The stall below belonged to a blacksmith, who sold interesting items wrought of metal (such as horseshoes), but also with an assortment of bracelets including many made of copper.
There was no shortage of hand-crafted jewelry including pieces with a variety of sizes, shapes and shades of amber. Amber is harvested in the Baltic region of Poland and is very popular throughout the country.
Lace products (table clothes, window coverings) are very popular in eastern Europe, and some lovely items were for sale at the market.
Lastly, a look at Little Market Square after all the stalls and weekend vendors have moved out.
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