For a slice of France in the Pacific but with added flavour I always enjoy travelling to French Polynesia. Its eclectic mix of languages, cultures and cuisines is intoxicating. Tahiti’s Faa'a International Airport (above) near the capital, Papeete, is just nine hours from Sydney – a relatively short flight for globe-trotting Australians.
Situated in the central South-Pacific, French Polynesia consists of five archipelagos – Austral, Gambier, Marquesas, Society and Tuamotu – containing some 130 islands that stretch for more than 2,000 kilometres.
The islands have always held a particular fascination for those seeking a different way of life. In 1969, lone French sailor Bernard Moitessier headed there after abandoning his winning position in the Golden Globe around-the-world yacht race. Disillusioned with Western society, he sailed back to Tahiti and settled there, living in a bamboo beach hut.
Almost 80 years earlier, French post-impressionist artist Paul Gauguin formed a similar view and in the later part of his life moved from France to French Polynesia. Over a period of 10 years he lived in Tahiti, then Punaauia and finally the Marquesas. His paintings adorn the walls of many buildings throughout the islands.
The Barfords are happy just to visit occasionally and on our last trip there we joined a cruise that took in Tahiti, Moorea, Bora Bora and Raiatea, as well as Rarotonga in the Cook Islands. The picture above is of our ship, the former Tahitian Princess. She has since been renamed and sold, but with just 800 passengers she was a joy to cruise on, rather than the 5,000-passenger behemoths that rule the waves today.
Tahiti is the most developed and populous island in French Polynesia, and visitors should take the opportunity to explore its bustling capital, Papeete (above). Be sure to check out the municipal market (below) located between Rue Edouard Ahnne and Rue Francois Cardella. Open from very early in the morning, the vast hall teems with people and produce.
Bora Bora also has some interesting sights including the famous Bloody Mary’s bar and restaurant – a name that will resonate with James A Michener fans – and a sartorially challenged taxi driver, both pictured below. Bloody Mary’s proudly claims to have been founded in 1979 by a Polish nobleman with the extravagant name of Jerzy Hubert Edward Von Dangel, who was apparently a dual citizen of Australia. I was originally sceptical of this claim but, surprisingly, his name does appear in a Commonwealth of Australia Gazette dated 24 September 1959.
Hiking is a great way to see parts of the islands not visited by the average tourist. Whether you’re a beginner or more advanced, there are plenty of opportunities for trail walking in the islands. Along the way you’ll find spectacular waterfalls, striking mountain peaks and lush valleys, as well as ancient ruins and abandoned buildings. A local guide is recommended where access to the trailheads is tricky. Permits are required for certain trails, and some can only be accessed by 4×4 vehicles.
Here are some of the best places to go hiking in the Society Islands. The trails are classified as easy, moderate or difficult, but I’ve only included those in the first two categories.
Tahiti
Papenoo Valley is great for families and is home to some of the most popular hiking trails in Tahiti. The valley offers a well-rounded glimpse of Tahiti’s landscape with magnificent waterfalls, ancient archaeological sites, lush vegetation and picturesque canyons. It’s the only hike in Tahiti that allows access to the Mount Orohena volcanic crater.
Te Pari is located in the southernmost part of Tahiti Iti and the Te Pari trail is accessible only by boat, offering an expedition into the uninhabited natural area of Tahiti. This scenic coastal hike ventures between the ocean and the Te Pari Cliffs with many points of interest along the way including white sandy beaches, lava tubes, the Queen’s Bathing Pool and the famous Vaipoiri Cave that has a natural ice-cold pool you used to be able to dive into, but which I believe is now closed to the public for safety reasons.
Fautaua Valley is situated near Papeete and its trail offers a relatively easy hike through a forest of lush, tropical vegetation. There are several points of interest along this trail, including the Fachoda Bridge and Fort, Fautaua Waterfall, the Governor’s Gardens, Teovere Pass and stunning views of the Diadem Mountain. You must obtain an access permit from Papeete Town Hall before entering the trail.
Moorea
A quick ferry ride away from Tahiti, Moorea is a peaceful and slow-paced island with stunning natural wonders. Beyond the turquoise lagoon and glistening bays lie emerald peaks, fragrant pineapple fields and lush valleys just waiting to be explored.
Three Coconuts Pass (Col des Trois Cocotiers) is the most popular hiking trail in Moorea. It’s well-maintained and easy to follow. The trail begins at the Belvedere parking lot and offers impressive views of Mount Tohivea, the Opunohu Valley, Opunohu Bay, Cook’s Bay and more.
Afareaitu Waterfall is located in the Afareaitu Valley and is a relatively short trail with many points of interest along the way. Rich, colourful vegetation abounds and visitors can take a refreshing dip in the pools beneath the picturesque falls.
Bora Bora
Ancestors’ Path – winding through the Valley of the Kings, the Ancestors’ Path in Bora Bora is famous for the giant banyan tree that sits atop the valley (apparently the inspiration behind the Tree of Souls in the Avatar film). The banyan tree has great cultural significance as it served as the final resting place for the kings of Bora Bora. This trail features ancient temples and colourful native flora, ending at an exquisite outlook with panoramic views of the famous Bora Bora lagoon and neighbouring islands.
Mount Otemanu is the most iconic peak in French Polynesia. While it is not possible to reach the summit by foot due to safety reasons, visitors can still explore its various hiking trails, including the path to the Cave of Mount Otemanu on the north-eastern side of the mountain.
The islands featured here are the most popular destinations in French Polynesia, but hiking is also possible on some of the other islands farther away from Tahiti. The local tourist information centres can get you started.
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