After years of stories highlighting the shrinking number of true boulangeries in Paris, shops where the breads and pastries are made as well as sold, the tide has turned and Paris now has more bakeries than 20 years ago.
In Paris alone, 110 new boulangeries opened in 2022, according to the Chambre des métiers et de l’artisanat (CMA) of the Île-de-France region centered on Paris. In the other parts of the region, the number has risen an average of 20%, with the biggest jump in Seine-Saint-Denis which had a 35% increase.
In Paris itself, there are now 1,360 bakeries, up 9% in the past five years. Twenty years ago, there were only a thousand boulangeries in the capital. The CMA says the bakeries are busy, too, baking 500 to 800 baguettes a day, along with other breads and pastries. In the rest of the country, the average is about 300.
The association, which helps its members work around rising costs and energy issues as well as promoting the trade, credits the rise to diversification, with many bakers now making more varieties, and offering salads and sandwiches made with their breads as competition for the fast-food restaurants. Many have added a table or two or an outdoor terrace offering coffee as well.