Torcello is the most distant of the islands of the Venetian lagoon, and nearly uninhabited, with only 10 official year-round residents. But once it was a city older than Venice, and a rival to Venice itself. With that status came a cathedral and other churches, and great mansions, but today, all that remains is the 11th century chapel of Santa Fosca, above, and the 7th c. Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, below.
With a population of perhaps 20,000, Torcello grew rich on the salt trade—until its canals silted up and began to breed mosquitos, leading to epidemics of malaria, which eventually forced the population to leave, moving to Venice's healthier conditions. When they left, many took the building materials of their houses and churches with them.
The cities of the Venetian lagoon had their origin in refugees from the 'barbarian' invasions of Italy; they were (at least in name) under the rule of the Byzantine emperor, and the cathedral is rich in Byzantine mosaics, the earliest in the area.
Santa Fosca, above, is in a simpler style, but has a dignified beauty. While even in summer Torcello is a day-trip proposition rather than a residential area, the island draws summer visitors to its few restaurants, and the churches are sometimes used for weddings. A small museum is also at the site.
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