Overlooking the Rainbow Mountains in Georgia is a series of rocky outcrops that became a sanctuary for ascetics trying to flee persecution as this part of the world was making the transition from paganism to Christianity. Indeed, after Ethiopia and Armenia, Georgia is where the Christian religion was established, and the earliest churches and chapels existing even to the present era still ascribe to the Orthodox Christian theology.
The word ‘lavra’ first confused me till I realized I was thinking of ‘larva’ and trying to convince myself that this was an essential stage in the evolution of organized religion, till the guide enlightened me that ‘lavra’ is the local term for a monastery, and David Gareja (or Davit Gareji in ancient lingo) was the monk who was ardently preaching and propagating the new faith in a hostile land. The degree of oppression was severe, if one could guess from the cells the size of pigeon holes dug into the unyielding rock at the most challenging heights and inclines, as far away as possible from being discovered and destroyed.
Our hike through the foothills to the monastic schools higher up wound across pastures where monks of the Black Order—who shun public life and domesticity to immerse themselves in their journey of spirituality and strict celibacy—still graze their few cows that they maintain for milk and meat. As tourists, it was indeed a privilege to catch a glimpse of the bond they build with God on a daily basis.
