No, that’s not me in the picture above—though I’d almost wish for a ride like that on occasion. I suspect, though, that it would move me through the streets too fast for my frequent photo stops. And my frequent stops at one of Vienna’s best institutions, the sidewalk sausage stands or Würstelstube.
Of course, for most people thinking of Viennese food other than wiener schnitzel, pastries probably come to mind. And, while I’m prone to a pastry and a ‘melange’—like a cappuccino, but full-size cup and regular coffee—I’m happy with any of many places offering them. Waiting in a line like this at the famous Sacher or equally-famous Demel would take all the joy out of it. Demel even has a sidewalk take-out window, but what’s the point without a place to sit and enjoy?
I collected a number of interesting or quirky storefronts along my way; Louis Vuitton, below, almost screams “expensive!” but in a refined way. Lobmeyr, on Kärtnerstrasse, one of the main shopping streets, sells elegant glassware. It’s been there, under the same ownership, for just over 200 years. It’s quite a contrast to its neighbors, and H&M store and a cannabis shop. You’ll probably notice from that shop and others here that English signs are quite common on shops.
An early morning flea-market at busy Schwedenplatz, a stunningly colorful assortment of shoes and a pedicab coach suitable for Cinderella or sightseeing…
Keeping time: the Anker Uhr, or Anker Clock, has a constantly moving cast of historic characters marking the hours, with a big show at noon when the whole cast parades across the Art Nouveau clock; elsewhere, a fabulous store front proclaims visually what the sign confirms: Watchmaker. The elegant storefront at Manz, however, is telling a lie. There’s no longer a university bookstore behind the Art Deco facade; the store is now selling shoes, bags and fashion accessories.
Time to go to church, in this case St Stephen’s Cathedral, or Stephansdom. Look closely at the first picture… that’s a really excellent bit of construction cover going on there…
Some subway moments… Otto Wagner’s elegant entrance to the U-Bahn at Stadtpark, and his more exuberant (and more familiar) pavilion at the Karlsplatz station. One of the headhouses has become a Wagner museum, while the other is currently hosting a cafe. And lastly, a station where you can find a different kind of pi…
Excavation near the Hofburg palace gives a glimpse of Roman, medieval and 19th century structures; when work is finished, the Roman part will still be visible. Below, near the Albertina museum, one of the many oversize walking-tour groups that occasionally clog streets and squares.
Near the Secession building, a charioteer appears to be taking a break, while his harnessed lions appear ready to press on. A surprisingly common sight in parts of the center: the ‘fiaker’ carriages that are one of Vienna’s tourism signatures, and sometimes a real issue for traffic. The sign below outside a building entrance identifies a ‘Dog Parking Place’ and has a hook for the leash.
Vienna’s open-air and semi-enclosed markets range from the relative order and gourmet focus of the Naschmarkt, where these folks have stopped for a bite to the crowded and churning Viktor-Adler-Markt, still an important food source in its working-class neighborhood.
Near the Naschmarkt, some interesting buildings and a building-mounted statue of Papageno as the Bird Catcher at the site where Mozart’s Magic Flute was first performed in 1791. The buildings are Art Nouveau classics by Otto Wagner; for easily-seen reasons they are nicknamed the Medallion House and the Majolica House.
A special treat: Meeting up with fellow Gumbo contributor ProfessorAbe and his wife for Vienna’s annual classic car parade. The event closes down the Ringstrasse, a main artery for an hour or more as cars pass by. The variety is amazing!
Two more storefronts. Blue Tomato sells surf and skate equipment, and since no store near it has graffiti, I have to assume it’s part of their ‘look.’ Galerie Lussy is more to my taste.
And Vienna is a good place for public utilities, it seems. More public scales than I’ve seen anywhere since I was a child, more actual working public phones than anywhere recently, and a sizable fleet of public drinking fountains that also allow refilling bottles and provide spray mist against the heat.
And, inarguably, the friendliest sightseeing bus in the world.
