Jeju Island is South Korea’s largest island, covering an area of almost 2,000 square kilometres. Together with outlying islands, it forms part of the Jeju Province and makes up the majority of it. The island lies in the Korea Strait, about 83 kilometres south of the nearest point on the Korean peninsula. We stopped off here while cruising between Korea and Japan.
Jeju Island is known locally as “the Hawaii of Korea”, but I suspect that whoever coined that phrase has never been to the aloha state. There are no obvious similarities in town, although Jeju has an attractive waterfront along the Tapdong Trail.
But to be fair we didn’t get beyond the downtown area. Further out is where you find volcanic landmarks, multiple waterfalls, white sand beaches and other natural wonders, and this is perhaps what the nickname refers to. In fact Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak, a volcanic peak with a natural crater at its summit, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The old downtown of Jeju City not only has historical significance as a walled city, but also served as the centre of Jeju’s politics, economy, society and culture. Its core area is delineated by Gwandeokjeong Pavilion, Dongmun Market and Sanjicheon Stream.
We walked from the pavilion to the other end of town, which you can do entirely below street level via the Jungang Underground Shopping Center.
Emerging at the other end places you right outside the Dongmun Market. This is Jeju Island’s largest and oldest permanent market. A street market, night market, traditional market and seafood market are all combined in one venue, and it also contains many places where you can eat and shop.
Walk across the main road outside the main entrance to the market and you will see a bridge with statues over a stream, the likes of which feature prominently in Korea.
Sanjicheon Stream flows from the foot of Hallasan Mountain to Jejuhang Port, passing through downtown Jeju. The area of the stream near Dongmun Market, the busy Chilseong-ro Shopping Area and Jungang-ro Shopping Street is always crowded with people.
The stream is home to a rich array of freshwater fish including sweetfish, gray mullet, Amur goby and carp, and in summer it attracts huge numbers of anglers as well as children eager to see the fish. A restored Chinese sailing vessel is exhibited at the end of the stream. Along the way are walking paths, a park and music fountains, and it is where Sanjicheon Art Festival and a selection of cultural events and performances are held every summer and winter.
The port, downstream from Sanjicheon Stream, is surprisingly large and accommodates numerous cargo vessels as well as cruise ships. The port of Jeju’s quay is a whopping 1,712 metres long and can accommodate up to 13 ships of varying sizes.
Main cargo exports are livestock, barley, millet, marine products and eggs. Imports include rice, wheat, salt, liquors, sugar, tobacco, petroleum, textiles and cement.
Jeju port also accommodates vessels offering ferry services to Chuja, Wando, Busan, Nokdong, Yeosu and Mokpo.
We walked around downtown taking in some of the more unusual sights. Pork is very popular in Korea and this is reflected in the golden pig statues seen in Jeju, particularly in and around … Black Pork Street, of course.
Just off this street is the Sanjicheon Gallery, a cultural space created by connecting two old inns. While surrounding structures were demolished during the restoration of Sanjicheon Stream, the gallery buildings were preserved as a valuable piece of old downtown. The photo gallery exhibits the works of current and deceased photographers who contributed to the photographic history of Jeju.
The old, abandoned Tapdong Cinema has been converted into the Arario Museum. It was founded in 2014 by Kim Chang-il, chairman of Arario Corporation and one of the country’s top art collectors.
The museum exhibits not only contemporary artworks, but also reveals nostalgic traces of the original downtown since the building has been only minimally renovated. It has a café and gift shop on the fifth floor, which affords excellent views of the original downtown area. Photography without a flash is allowed.
Jeju’s downtown with its long history has enjoyed vigorous city growth relative to its size, mainly through urban development projects, but long-term residents are relocating to the outskirts, leaving commercial properties and only essential workers in the downtown area.
According to local authorities the remains of Jeju’s fortress lend an air of sadness amidst all the modern urbanisation and development, but the historical and cultural resources of the old downtown will show off the thousand-year Jeju story for generations to come.
At the last count around 14 million tourists visited Jeju during the year. The vast majority of these are Korean nationals who arrive either on domestic flights or on one of the ferries that ply between the island and the Korean mainland. Hawaii-like or not, Jeju is an extremely popular holiday destination for domestic travellers.
International travellers visit too, and they usually fly into Jeju International Airport after connecting at Seoul Gimpo Airport. This flight of just over an hour is actually the busiest domestic route in the world with 14.2 million seats sold last year – nearly 39,000 per day.
The other way of seeing Jeju, albeit only briefly, is on a shore excursion from a cruise ship.
Information sources: Jeju Tourism Organization, Shipnext
Excellent post!
Thank you, Marilyn.
A most informative piece, Barry. Thanks!
Thank you, my pleasure.